Loving My Tunisian Hooks!

Hello dear readers! Recently I ordered a set of Tunisian hooks from Crochet Creations and I’ve been learning how to do Tunisian crochet. (Be sure to check out my tutorials on Tunisian Simple Stitch and Tunisian Purl Stitch.) 

I also found out my son and his wife are going to have a baby in January and my daughter and her fiancé are expecting in March. So, you know I’ve been crocheting all things!

How pretty are they?

I came up with a simple pattern for a baby bag using Tunisian purl and simple stitches. I’m not done with the project, but I had to share what I’ve gotten done so far and share the pattern with you. 

I really like Tunisian crochet and I love my new hooks! They are so easy to use because they are nice and smooth, well balanced, and the knobby thing at the end lets me pile up a bunch of stitches on the hook as I work.

Just getting started on the front

Here is the pattern so far. I used Red Heart With Love yarn in white and a size 7mm Tunisian hook.

Back:

Chain 40

Row 1: Tunisian simple stitch

Rows 3 & 4: Tunisian purl stitch

Pattern repeat: 6 Tun purl sts, Tun simple sts to the last 6 sts, 6 Tun purl sts. Repeat the pattern until the bag is the length desired.

Hood: 

Tun purl stitch to desired length. I crocheted 11 rows for the hood. Bind off and sew the ends of the hood section together to form the hood.

Front:

Make like the front, but leave off the hood section. If you want to add button holes space them out evenly along the sides. I found this great video about vertical button holes in Tunisian crochet. Work across the row in pattern working the ending edge as same as the first.

Finishing: 

Holding the two pieces with right sides together, slip stitch the bottom edges together. Sew on buttons onto the back so you can button and unbutton the from the front and you’re done.

This pattern is still in progress so I make tweak it as I go. If you have any suggestions or comments, please be sure to let me know!

If you’d like to get in on the great deals at Crochet Creations, use coupon code Kind_Words and get 20% off your purchases excluding shipping. There are some great deals and really cool things on the site, so be sure to pop over and take a look. 

Also, give their Facebook page a like, too to keep up on the sales and fun contests their run.

Until next time, stay safe and keep on hooking!

  

Grit Stitch Crochet Dishcloth

One of my favorite quick projects is a dishcloth or washcloth. They work up quickly and I like how I can pick my own colors and pattern. Plus I think they are thicker and hold up much better than the store bought variety.

Because I like a lot of texture in my dishcloths and washcloths, the grit stitch is one of my go-to stitches. It's a really simple stitch that a beginner will have no problem mastering. There are only two stitches in the pattern, single crochet and double crochet. The foundation chain is done in sets of 2. This means as long as you have an even number of foundation chain stitches you can make your project as wide or narrow as you like.

How to Crochet Single Crochet Foundation Chain Stitches

Speaking of foundation chains, I don't like to just a chain. I prefer to use foundation chain stitches. Foundation chain stitches create a nice loose and springy foundation for your project that doesn't pull or warp it. Many times a chain will be tight and the bottom of your dishcloth is tighter and narrower than the top. Using foundation chain stitches solves that problem.

For this project I used single crochet foundation chains. Chain 2, insert the hook into the first chain, yarn over and pull through the stitch. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first loop on the hook. This creates the chain stitch you'll need to begin the next stitch. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the two loops on the hook to complete the stitch. 

Begin the next stitch by inserting the hook under the chain stitch created in the previous stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. Yarn over and pull through the first loop on the hook. This is the chain stitch you'll need for the next stitch. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the two loops on the hook to complete the stitch. Continue until you have the correct number of stitches. 

At the last stitch turn the chain so that the hook and yarn are on top of the stitches and continue just like you would with a traditional foundation chain. 

When you're crocheting foundation chain stitches, it is sometimes easier to think of crocheting them sideways or vertically instead of across or horizontally. 

Grit Stitch Crochet Dishcloth Pattern

You will need a small amount of cotton or cotton blend yarn. I used Premier Home cotton./polyester yarn in Purple (Color A) and Grape Splash (Color B). You'll also need a size J/10 (6.00mm) crochet hook and a tapestry needle.

With Color A crochet 20 single crochet foundation stitches

Row 1: ch3 *sc into next st, dc into next st* rep across ending with a sc into the last st, turn

Row 2: ch3 *sc into the next st, dc into the next st* rep across ending with a sc into the 3rd turning chain, turn

Repeat Row 2 until the desired length, fasten off Color A and weave in the tails. 

On all rows you will be working a single crochet into a double crochet, and a double crochet into a single crochet. 

Edging

Round 1: Join Color B in any corner and ch1. Single crochet evenly around the washcloth working 3 single crochet into each corner. Work 2 single crochet into the last corner and join into the chain 1

Round 2: ch1, sc into each st around working 3 single crochet into each corner, join into the chain 1

For the loop chain 8 and slip stitch into the base of the beginning of the chain 8, turn your work and work 8 single crochet around the loop, slip stitch into the stitch to the left of the base of the chain, fasten off and weave in tails. 

You're all done!

As with all my patterns please feel free to sell any items you make with them, just please give me credit as the designer. If you'd like to share this pattern, please share the link to this blog or the link off my Raverly account. 

I have tried to make my patterns error free, but if you find any errors or have any questions, please ask me in the comments. I'd love to hear from my readers. Until next time, take care and keep on hooking!

Free Pattern Friday!

Hello my dear readers! Today is Friday and I wanted to share my latest crochet project with you. It's a very simple basket I worked up to hold my yarn balls. I was getting tired of them rolling all over my desk and rolling across the floor. Not only that, but my cats seem to think my yarn is their personal toy stash, so I whipped up an easy solution.

I used 2 strands of Premier Home cotton/polyester yarn and a size J crochet hook. You can use any type of yarn you like, but I had a bunch of odds and ends in my stash and wanted to use them up. I like the variegated look the different colors create, but you can use one or as many colors as you like.

Odds and Ends Basket

You will need: 2 balls of yarn (or a bunch of odds and ends from your stash), a size J hook, and a tapestry needle to weave in the ends.

Notes: I used a magic ring to begin the project and an invisible join. I've included a tutorial for both techniques at the end of the pattern.

To begin hold 2 strands of yarn together and create a magic ring. Chain 1, sc 8 into the ring, close it up and slip stitch into the chain 1 to join.

Round 1: ch1, sc into the same sp, 2 sc into each st around, join

Round 2: ch1, sc into the same sp *sc into the next st, 2 sc into the next st* rep around, join

Round 3: ch1, sc into the same sp *sc into the next st 2 sts, 2 sc into the next st* rep around, join

Round 4: ch1, sc into the same sp *sc into the next st 3 sts, 2 sc into the next st* rep around, join

Round 5: ch1, sc into the same sp *sc into the next st 4 sts, 2 sc into the next st* rep around, join

Rounds 6-9: ch1, sc into each sp around, join, turn

Round 10: ch1, fpsc around each st around, join turn

Round 11: ch1, sc around, join

Repeat Round 11 until your basket is the desired height.

Decoration Detail (optional)  With 2 strands of yarn surface crochet around the posts of the last row.

How to Crochet a Magic Ring

This is a great way to begin a crochet in the round project. It makes a nice tight center with no gap.

Step 1: Wrap the yarn around your index and middle fingers.

Step 2: Insert the hook under both strands of yarn, yarn over and pull through the ring, chain 1.

Step 3: Work the appropriate number of stitches around the 2 strands of yarn.

Step 4: Pull the loose tail until the first and last stitches meet, slip stitch into the chain 1 to join.

How to Use the Invisible Join Technique

Work the correct number of stitches in the pattern, and then work 1 more stitch into the same space as the beginning chain. Join into the first crocheted stitch (the stitch directly to the left of the beginning chain). This hides the beginning chain and creates a nice tight seam which is almost invisible.

How to Surface Crochet

Step 1: Hold the yarn in the back of the fabric. Insert the hook and pull a loop through the stitches. 

Step 2: Insert the yarn into the fabric and pull the yarn through the fabric.

Step 3: Pull the yarn through the loop on the hook. 

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until you complete the surface crochet. 

Step 4: Pull the yarn up in a long loop, remove the hook, insert it from the back to the front and pull the loop through to the back of the fabric and join into the back of the stitches. 

I hope you like this pattern and have fun crocheting your own baskets to tame your stash and hold items. You can adjust the size of the basket by reducing or adding rounds to the base and sides.

With all my patterns you may feel free to sell any items you make with them as long as you give me credit as the designer. If you'd like to share this pattern, please share the link to this blog or the pattern on my Raverly page.

Please post any pics of projects you make with this pattern, I'd love to see them! Feel free to ask questions, or if you find any mistakes in the pattern. Thanks for stopping by, until next time take care and keep on hooking!

Double Thick Doily Crochet Potholder

This cute and functional potholder is double thick so it will stand up the hottest pots and pans. The two pieces are crocheted and then joined with single crochet. This is a great project to use up your stash, and these potholders make great gifts.

Materials

You will need 3 balls of cotton yarn. I used Premier Home in Sunshine (Color A), Orange (Color B), and Citrus Splash (Color C). You will also need a US I/9 (5.50mm) crochet hook and a tapestry needle.

Stitches

Chain stitch – ch

Single crochet – sc

Slip stitch – sl st

Double crochet – dc

Front post double crochet – fpdc

Front post single crochet – fpsc

Shell – 5 dc

Back

With Color A ch3

Rnd 1: 12dc into the 1^st ch, join in 1^st dc

Rnd 2: ch3, dc into the same sp, 2dc into each st around, join in 1^st dc

Rnd 3: ch1 *sc into the next st, 2 sc into the next st* rep around, sc into ch1 sp, join in 1^st sc

Rnd 4: ch3 *dc into each of the next 2 sts, 2dc into next st* rep around, dc into ch3 sp, join in 1^st dc

Rnd 5: ch1 *sc into each of the next 3 sts, 2dc into next st* rep around, sc into ch1 sp, join in 1^st sc

Rnd 6: ch3, dc into each st, dc into ch3 sp, join in 1^st dc

Rnd 7: ch1, sc into each st, sc into the ch1 sp, join in 1^st sc, turn

Rnd 8: ch3, fpdc around each st, join in 1^st fpdc

Rnd 9: ch1, fpsc around each st, join in 1^st fpsc

Rnd 10: ch3, dc into each st around, dc into ch3 sp, join in 1^st dc

Rnd 11: ch1, sc into each st around, join in ch1, do not fasten off. Weave in tail from starting ch3.

Front

With Color B ch3

Rnd 1: 12 dc into the 1^st ch, join in 1^st dc

Rnd 2: With Color C join in any dc *ch3, sk 1 st, sc into next st* rep around

Rnd 3: sl st into 1^st ch3 sp *ch5, sc into next ch3 sp* rep around, join in sl st

Rnd 4: sl st into 1^st ch5 sp, ch3, 4dc into ch5 sp *sc into sc, 5dc into next ch5 sp* rep around, join in sl st

Rnd 5: sl st into 3^rd dc of 1^st shell *ch3, dc into next sc, ch3, sc into 3^rd dc of next shell* rep around ending with a sl st into the 3^rd dc of the 1^st shell to join, fasten off Color C

Rnd 6: Join Color B in any dc, ch3, sc into next ch3 sp, ch3, sc into next ch3 sp, ch3, sc into next dc* rep around, end with ch3 and join

Rnd 7: sl st into 1^st sc, ch3, 2dc into same sc *sc into next sc, 5dc into next sc* rep around, ending with sc into next sc, 2dc into last sc, join in 3^rd ch, fasten off Color B

Rnd 8: Join Color C in the 3^rd dc of a shell (ch3, dc into next sc, ch3 sc into 3^rd dc of next shell* rep around, end with ch3, dc into next sc, ch3 and join in 1^st ch

Rnd 9: sl st into 1^st ch3 sp, ch3, 2dc into same sp *sc into next sc, 5dc into next ch3 sp* rep around, end with sc into next sc, 2dc into 1^st ch3 sp, join in 3^rd ch

Rnd 10: ch3 *dc into next sc, ch3, sc into 3^rd dc of next shell, ch3* rep around, join in 1^st ch, fasten off and weave in tails

Assembly

Once you have the front and the back crocheted, hold the two pieces together with the wrong sides together. Using Color A from the back, single crochet evenly around the outer edges joining the pieces.

Use stitch markers to hold the front and back together. Place them around the two pieces dividing them in fourths. The stitch markers will make it easier to crochet the two pieces together. 

The stitches will not match up exactly so you will need to ease the stitches in to join the two pieces. Work into the single crochet and around the chain stitches of the front piece, and into each single crochet stitch of the back piece. Once you have the pieces joined, they may look a bit wonky but you can stretch them out and make them even. 

Edging

Turn the potholder so that the front is facing you. Chain 1, single crochet around the edge, join in chain 1. Chain 3, skip 1 stitch, sc, chain 3, skip 1 stitch around, join in 1^st chain. Fasten off and weave in tails. Enjoy your new potholder!

I hope you like this pattern. Check out my other patterns on Raverly and on this blog. Feel free to sell any items you make with this pattern. If you'd like to share the pattern, please share the link to this post or the link to my Raverly account. 

Let me know if you have any questions, or find any errors in the pattern. Thanks for stopping by! 

Shannon’s Crochet Boot Cuffs

I like boot cuffs, but since I live in Florida I really have no opportunity to wear them. I have a friend who lives in the Chicago area and I designed these boot cuffs for her. They work up quickly and you can use the colors I chose, or use your own colors. You can also substitute the yarn as long as you use a medium or worsted weight yarn.

I hope you like them, please let me know in the comments if you have any problems with the pattern. I try to make my patterns complete and easy to understand, but please feel free to ask questions or point out any problems you may find.

If you’d like to share the pattern, please do, but please share the link to this blog. You can sell any items you make with this pattern with no strings attached, just please give me credit as the designer. Enjoy!

What You’ll Need:

Red Heart Super Saver yarn in Amethyst (Color A) and Grape Fizz (Color B)

Size US J/10 (6mm) crochet hook and a tapestry needle

Gauge: 12 stiches and 8 rows in hdc equal 4 inches

Finished cuffs measure about 13 inches in circumference and they are 5 inches tall.

Notes:

The pattern is sized for an adult (13 inches), but you can make it larger or smaller by increasing or decreasing the foundation chain as long as the total number of stitches can be divided by three. You can also make them longer by adding rows of shells until you reach the desired length.

Bottom ribbed portion is crocheted first in rows and then sewed together. The top shell section is then crocheted in rounds around the ribbed section. 

Abbreviations and Stitches

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Chain – ch

Single Crochet – sc

Half Double Crochet – hdc

Front Post Half Double Crochet – fphdc

Front Post Single Crochet - fpsc

Double Crochet – dc

Skip – sk

Stitch – st

Bottom Ribbed Section – Make 2

33 fsc with Color A

Row 1: ch2, hdc across, turn

Row 2: ch2, *fphdc, hdc* rep across, turn

Row 3: ch2, hdc across, turn

Row 4: ch2, *fphdc into the st 2 rows below (around the post of the fphdc in Row 2), hdc* rep across, turn

Row 5: ch1, fpsc around each st ending with a sc into 2^nd ch, turn

Row 6: ch1, sc across, fasten off leaving a long tail to sew ends together. Sew ends together and weave in tails

Top Shell Section

Join Color A into the seam of the bottom ribbed section. Cuff is now worked in rounds.

Round 1: ch1, sc around, join in ch1, turn

Round 2: ch1, fpsc around each st, join in ch1, turn

Round 3: ch3, dc into same st as ch3, sk 1 st, sc into next st *sk 1 st, 3dc into next st, sk1 st, sc into next st* rep around ending with sk 1 st, 1dc into the same sp as ch3 and 1^st dc, join in 3^rd ch

Round 4: ch1 *3dc into the next sc, sc into the 2^nd dc of the next cluster (3dc)* rep around, join in ch1
Round 5: ch3, dc into same st as ch3 *sc into the 2nd dc of the next shell, 3dc into next sc* rep round, join in 3rd ch

Rounds 6 & 7: Repeat Rounds 4 & 5, fasten off and weave in tails. 

You can also roll the tops down for a different look.

Warm Climate Temperature Afghan - Free Guide

I've been seeing a lot of guides for temperature afghans and think this is a great idea. What you do is crochet a row on an afghan and use the temperature outside as the guide for the color. What you end up with is a record of the temperature during the year, and a lovely scrap afghan. But what if you live in hot climates like Florida? The guides that are out there would make your afghan all one set of colors like reds and oranges.

Well you know me, I get a wild hair and have to create something to meet a need I think is out there. So I've come up with a Florida Temperature Guide for an afghan, but it can be used for any warm climate, not just Florida. I hope this helps my fellow crochet artists who live in warmer climates. If you use this or come up with one of your own, I'd love to see your afghans as you work on them so be sure to come to my Facebook page and post your pics!

Free Books! Yes I Said Free!

Hello and Happy New Year to one and all! To ring in the new year how about some free ebooks? You may know I write crochet and knitting books under a pen name for a client. Right now several of them are free on Amazon and I just had to share this good news with all of you. Check them out, and if you get some (I hope you get them all...) please leave a comment for me. Comments really help other folks pick out the right books.

The Almanac of Crochet by Dorothy Wilks

The Encyclopedia of Crochet by Florence Schultz

The Complete Handbook on How to Crochet and Knit by Florence Schultz

The Complete Beginners Guide on How to Crochet and Knit by Florence Schultz

I'll keep you posted when more of my books go on sale or are free. These offers are good through January 1st or 2nd depending on the set you choose. I hope you enjoy them and learn from them. Please feel free to offer me any comments or questions, I always love to hear from my readers.

Happy New Year!

Seed Stitch Dishcloth

I really like making my own dishcloths and washcloths. Not only are they fun and quick to crochet up, but I think they are much thicker and softer than store bought versions. You can also crochet them up in your favorite colors, and give them as thoughtful gifts.

Today I'm sharing a very easy pattern. I've used two colors, but you can just use one, or use as many as you like. The finished dishcloth measures about 7 inches wide and 6 1/2 inches long. The gauge is 20 stitches and 19 rows per four inches using a size G/4.25mm hook. The gauge really isn't that important for this pattern, and you can use a larger or smaller hook if you'd like a looser or tighter fabric.

Materials Needed

2 balls of cotton yarn; I used Premier Home yarn in Sunshine (Color A) and Orange (Color B)
Size US G/4.25mm crochet hook and a tapestry needle

Special Stitches

Single Crochet Foundation Chain: Chain 2, insert the hook into the first chain, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through the first loop on the hook. This creates the chain stitch you will need to begin the next stitch. Yarn over and pull through the 2 loops on the hook.

Begin the next stitch by inserting the hook under the 2 loops of the chain stitch you created with the first step of the last stitch. Yarn over and pull through the loop on the hook (I find it helpful to grab the chain stitch so I know exactly where to insert the hook for the next stitch), yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops on the hook.

Notes

As you work the pattern the double crochet stitches are worked into the single crochet stitches of the previous row, and the single crochet stitches are worked into the double crochet stitches of the previous row. You can make the dishcloth any width as long as your foundation chain is an even number of stitches. 

Pattern

With Color A crochet 20 single crochet foundation chains

Row 1: ch1 *dc into the next st, sc into the next st* rep across ending with a sc into the last st

Row 2; ch3 *sc into the next st, dc into the next st* rep across ending with a sc into the last st

Rows 3-10: Repeat Row 2, change to Color B at the end of Row 10, fasten off Color A

Rows 11-20: With Color B repeat Row 2, change to Color A at the end of Row 20, fasten off Color B

Rows 21-30: With Color A repeat Row 2, fasten off and weave in tails

Edging (Optional)

I didn't crochet an edging on this dishcloth, but if you want to add an edging turn your work at the end of Row 30 and chain 1. Single crochet across the top and work 3 sc into the corner. Single crochet evenly along the side and work 3 sc in the corner. Single crochet across the bottom, sc 3 into the corner and single crochet evenly along the side. When you reach the last corner work 2 sc into the corner and join in chain 1. 

You can now crochet another round of single crochet, or crochet a decorative edging if you'd like. 

That's it! Now you can enjoy your new dishcloth. Let me know in the comments if you have any questions or comments about this pattern. Have fun! 

Ribbed Cable Crochet Hook Case

Hello! I know I haven't posted anything in quite a while, sorry about that! I've been working on lots of ebooks under the names Dorothy Wilston and Cynthia Welsh. They are available on Amazon.com for pretty good prices, so please check them out.

For one of the books I made a pretty bag to hold one of my works in progress. The problem was I didn't think about carrying along the hook and little plastic bullet case for my tapestry needles. Today I came up with a small hook case that will carry  a few hooks, my tapestry needles, and a small pair of fold up scissors.

I used some scrap cotton yarn I had on hand from my projects so you can use just about any yarn you like as long as the stitches are fairly tight so your hook doesn't slide out. I also used some old buttons I had in a tin of my mother's, so feel free to use your favorite buttons or sew a strip of Velcro across the underside of the flap.

Here is the pattern, I hope you like it. If you find any mistakes please let me know in the comments.

Supplies: Lily Sugar ‘n Cream cotton yarn in Purple (A) and White (B), a size US G/6 (4.25mm) crochet hook, 2 1 inch buttons, sewing needle, sewing thread, and a tapestry needle.

Front Post Half Double Crochet (fphdc):  Yarn over and insert hook from the front around the post of the stitch 2 rows below, yarn over and pull around post, pull stitches up even with the active row, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the hook. Count the stitches behind the fphdc stitches to find the next stitch to work into.

Changing Colors: Do not fasten yarn off, work the last stitch of the row until you have 3 loops on the hook, draw new color through these 3 loops. Capture old color in the first chain stitch of the next row to carry the colors up the side of the fabric.

Front

With Color A ch 25

Row 1: sc into 2^nd ch from hook, sc across, turn

Row 2: ch1, sc across row, turn

Row 3: ch2, hdc *fphdc into the st 2 rows below in each of the next 2 sts, hdc into next 2 sts* repeat across ending with a hdc into each of the last 3 sts, turn

Row 4: With Color B ch2, hdc across, turn

Row 5: ch2, hdc *fphdc into the st 2 rows below in each of the next 2 sts, hdc into next 2 sts* repeat across ending with a hdc into each of the last 3 sts, turn

Rows 6-9: Repeat Rows 4 & 5 changing colors every 2 rows

Row 10-13: With Color A ch2, hdc across, turn, fasten off after Row 13

Attach Color B onto Row 13

Row 14-17: ch1, sc across, turn, fasten off and weave in tails.

Back

With Color B chain 25

Row 1: sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc across, turn

Row 2: ch1, sc across, turn

Row 3-9: ch2, hdc across, turn

Row 10: ch1, sc across, turn, fasten off, weave in tails.

Assembly

With wrong sides held together whip stitch around the sides and bottom of the case to sew together.

Sews buttons on the back side of the case.

Lining

Lining the case is optional, but it will keep your hooks from sliding out between the stitches. What I did wasn’t very scientific, but it worked. I cut a piece of fabric about 2 inches larger than the inside of the clutch. (Granted this step would have been much easier if I had done it before I sewed the bag together.) 

Next I put the material inside the bag and turned the edges under. I then folded the side edges under the top edge of both side so that I didn’t have to seam up the sides of the lining. I used the blanket stitch around the top of the lining fabric catching the inside loop of a stitch on the inside of the bag all of the way around the top of the bag. I used embroidery floss because it matched the fabric perfectly, but you can use regular sewing thread if you like. 

You can also whip stitch the lining into place, or if you want you could even use a machine to stitch the lining into the bag. You could also turn the bag inside out and stitch the side seams together, but I didn’t do this step as I think the folded fabric will be just fine. But I may stitch it together later if I find things are sliding out through the folds. 

I set the fabric in the bag and folded over the edges and pinned it into place. I trimmed the top edge and left 2 inches for folding over.

Fold the sides under the top of the lining and pin in place.

Lining all pinned in place and ready to sew.

To sew the blanket stitch insert the needle into a loop on the wrong side of the crochet fabric, through the material, and then pull the needle through the large loop formed by the thread.

All done!

Feel free to sell anything you make with this pattern, but if you want to share this pattern please share the link of this blog or the link on Raverly. Thanks in advance for respecting my efforts as a designer.

This n That Square

I originally started this square to use as a corner 2 corner square Afghan, but I didn’t like the way they were coming together so I added some rows and made them into pot holders. You could also use them to make pillows, or leave off the edging and use several of them to create a throw or Afghan. Once you have all of the squares together you can then do the edging all of the way around the Afghan.

Use the colors you like, and be creative!

The first one I made had a white C2C center square.

The second I made had a variegated C2C center square.

Pattern Notes:

The first layer of the edging is worked directly into the square. The second layer is worked by ch3 and then bpsc (back post single crochet) around the sc stitch of the first layer of edging. To work a bpsc insert the hook from the back around the sc post, yarn over and pull the hook up around the sc post, yarn over and pull through the 2 loops on your hook. Here is a video from New Stitch a Day to show you how to work a bpsc stitch.

The center of the square is a block of corner 2 corner (C2C). If you’ve never done C2C The Crochet Crowd has a great video demonstrating this technique. Written instructions can be found on the Red Heart site. The written pattern is for a throw, but to get a square simply start to decrease after you reach 7 rows.

I changed colors every round after the dc and sc rounds, but it is up to you how many times you want to change color.

Square:

Make a C2C square which is 7 rows square. (Start to decrease at the point where you have 7 squares across a row.)

Round 1: Attach yarn at the corner of your C2C square onto a ch3 space. Ch3, sc, dc, sc, dc into the corner. Work a dc evenly across each side of the square. At the corners you will work (dc, sc, dc, sc, dc). Join in the 3^rd ch of the first ch3.

Round 2: ch1, 3 sc into each corner, and sc evenly across each side of the square. Join in ch1 sp.

Rounds 3-6: Repeat Round 2

Edging:

Round 1: ch3, sk1, sc, *ch3, sk 1, sc* repeat around square. Join in 1^st ch3 st.

Round 2: *ch 3, bpsc around sc post* repeat around square and join into 1^st ch3 st.

Work in ends.

Close up of edging

The pattern is complete and error free to the best of my knowledge. If you need help or have any questions please leave a comment and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can. You may not sell this pattern, but you may sell any items you create with it. Please give me credit as the original designer if you sell items. If you’d like to share this pattern please share this blog post or you can also find it in my Ravelry shop.

Happy Hooking!