C2C Baby Blanket with Shell Picot Edging

I really like the Corner 2 Corner (C2C) pattern. It works up very quickly and creates a beautiful texture. The pattern can be adapted to any size blanket or afghan, and can even be used to create lovely graphgans. Today I’d like to share with you my latest project. This is a pretty baby afghan suitable for a boy or a girl.

The blanket is made with the C2C pattern with my own shell picot edging design. I’ve included a tutorial for the C2C pattern as well as a link to The Crochet Crowd’s video tutorial. I’m sure once you get the pattern down you’ll enjoy working it and it will become one of your favorite go-to patterns.

Materials I Used

1 skein of Red Heart Super Saver in Turqua (Color A) and Light Grey (Color B). I also used a size US I/9 (5.50mm) crochet hook and a tapestry needle. 

Measurements

The blanket measures around 40 inches square, but you can make it any size you wish.

The Crochet Crowd C2C Video Tutorial

Check out my latest Florence Schultz book on the C2C and Box Stitch pattern available on Amazon. (I write crochet and knitting books under the pen name of Flornece Schultz.)

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Corner 2 Corner Pattern

Instead of working in rows horizontally, the C2C pattern is worked in diagonal rows. Here’s an image to help you visualize how it is worked.

To begin chain 6. Work a double crochet into the fourth chain from the hook. Work a double crochet into each of the next two chain stitches. This is the first block and tier one.

Chain 6. Work a double crochet into the fourth chain from the hook and work a double crochet into each of the next two chains. Fold the two blocks together and slip stitch into the chain three space of the first block. Be sure the blocks don’t twist at this point. The edges should line up so that you can easily slip stitch into the chain three space of the first block.

Be sure not to twist the blocks so you can slip stitch into the chain 3 of the first block.

To begin the next block, chain 3. Crochet 3 double crochet into the chain three space of the previous block.

Double crochet into the fourth chain from the hook, and into each of the next three chain stitches. Fold the blocks together and slip stitch into the chain 3 space of the adjoining block. Chain 3 to begin the next block in tier three.

Work 3 double crochet into the chain 3 space and slip stitch into the chain 3 space of the adjoining block. Chain 3 and work 3 double crochet into the chain 3 space. Change colors at the end of the last double crochet stitch. This is the third tier.

To begin the next tier chain 6 since we’re still increasing the width and the length of the project. Double crochet into the fourth chain and into each of the next three chains. Fold the block so that you can slip stitch into the chain 3 space of the adjoining square.

Work across the tier chaining 3 and working 3 double crochet into each chain 3 space of the adjoining blocks until you reach the other side of the fabric. Remember you are working diagonally, not in straight rows.

Continue to chain 6 at the beginning of each new tier until you have reached the desired width. To stop increasing the width slip stitch across the double crochet stitches of the last block and into the chain 3 space of the last block. Chain 3 and continue across the tier as usual. If you want to make the project longer chain 6 on the opposite side of the fabric.

Once you are ready to quit increasing the length work the last block in the tier and instead of chaining 6, slip stitch across the side of the last blocked crocheted and into the chain 3 space. Chain 3 and continue to work blocks across the tier.

Slip stitch across the top of the last square and chain 3

When you get to the other side of the fabric, slip stitch across the side of the last block and slip stitch into the chain 3 space of the last block. If you want to change colors, pull the new color through the slip stitch into the chain 3 space. Chain 3 to begin the next tier of blocks. Now you will begin to have less blocks per tier as your project takes shape.

Begin the next tier by turning you work and slip stitching across the side of the last block and into the chain 3 space. Chain 3 and continue to work the pattern. Repeat this process until you have one block left in the last tier. After you turn your work slip stitch across the side and into the chain 3 space. 

Chain 3 and work the last block. Slip stitch into the chain 3 space of the adjoining block. Fasten off the yarn and leave a long tail to weave in.

Shell Picot Edging

Close up of edging

Before you work any edging it is a good idea to work a round of single crochet in the main color of your project to give you a nice even edge. Begin with a chain 1 and work single crochet stitches evenly around the blanket working 3 single crochet into each corner. I crocheted a single crochet into each slip stitch, and two single crochet into each chain three space. Just work as evenly a possible and don’t sweat it, it will all work out and you’ll have a nice even edge to work with. When you reach the chain 1, slip stitch into it, draw up a long tail to weave in and fasten off Color A. 

Example of the long double crochet or spike stitch

Attach Color B in any stitch, chain 1 and work single crochet around the blanket working 3 single crochet into each corner stitch. Slip stitch into the beginning chain 1 stitch and chain 4. Skip 1 stitch and double crochet into the next stitch. Continue around the blanket with chain 1, skip 1 stitch, double crochet into the next stitch. At the corners work double crochet, chain 2, skip the corner stitch, double crochet into the next stitch. Continue around and slip stitch into the 3^rd beginning chain and fasten off Color B.

 Join Color A in a double crochet stitch and chain 1. Yarn over and insert the hook into the skipped single crochet stitch of the previous row. Yarn over and pull the yarn up even with the active row, yarn over and pull through the first two loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through the last two loops on the hook. This is an extended or long double crochet. Crochet a single crochet into the next stitch, and a long double crochet into the next stitch. Continue around the blanket alternating single crochet and long double crochet stitches. In the corners work a long double crochet into the stitch before the corner stitch, chain 2, and another long double crochet into the stitch after the corner stitch skipping the center corner stitch. You will be working a single crochet into the double crochet stitches, and a long double crochet at the single crochet stitches into the row below. Join in the chain 1 and fasten off Color A.

Join Color B in any stitch and work a round of single crochet into each stitch. Remember to work 3 single crochet into each corner. Join into the chain 1 and fasten off.

Join Color A into any stitch and chain 3, into the same stitch work double crochet, 3 stitch picot, 2 double crochet. Skip one stitch and single crochet into the next stitch. Skip one stitch and work 2 double crochet, picot, 2 double crochet into the next stitch. Continue this pattern all of the way around the blanket and join in the 3^rd chain.

To crochet a picot stitch chain 3, slip stitch into the 1^st chain. This forms a cute little bump on the top of the shell.

Once you have the edging completed weave in your tails and you’re done!

I hope you enjoyed creating this cute baby blanket. You can make this pattern as large or small as you like by adjusting the points at which you quit increasing the width and length. Please watch the video for a visual tutorial on this fun and easy pattern.

You may feel free to sell any items made with my patterns, but please give me credit as the designer. If you’d like to share the pattern, please share the link to this blog or the link to my Raverly page. If you find any errors in the pattern, or have questions please let me know in the comments.  Be sure to come by my Facebook page, Kat’s Crochet Creations, and give it a like. Thanks for stopping by!

Double Thick Doily Crochet Potholder

This cute and functional potholder is double thick so it will stand up the hottest pots and pans. The two pieces are crocheted and then joined with single crochet. This is a great project to use up your stash, and these potholders make great gifts.

Materials

You will need 3 balls of cotton yarn. I used Premier Home in Sunshine (Color A), Orange (Color B), and Citrus Splash (Color C). You will also need a US I/9 (5.50mm) crochet hook and a tapestry needle.

Stitches

Chain stitch – ch

Single crochet – sc

Slip stitch – sl st

Double crochet – dc

Front post double crochet – fpdc

Front post single crochet – fpsc

Shell – 5 dc

Back

With Color A ch3

Rnd 1: 12dc into the 1^st ch, join in 1^st dc

Rnd 2: ch3, dc into the same sp, 2dc into each st around, join in 1^st dc

Rnd 3: ch1 *sc into the next st, 2 sc into the next st* rep around, sc into ch1 sp, join in 1^st sc

Rnd 4: ch3 *dc into each of the next 2 sts, 2dc into next st* rep around, dc into ch3 sp, join in 1^st dc

Rnd 5: ch1 *sc into each of the next 3 sts, 2dc into next st* rep around, sc into ch1 sp, join in 1^st sc

Rnd 6: ch3, dc into each st, dc into ch3 sp, join in 1^st dc

Rnd 7: ch1, sc into each st, sc into the ch1 sp, join in 1^st sc, turn

Rnd 8: ch3, fpdc around each st, join in 1^st fpdc

Rnd 9: ch1, fpsc around each st, join in 1^st fpsc

Rnd 10: ch3, dc into each st around, dc into ch3 sp, join in 1^st dc

Rnd 11: ch1, sc into each st around, join in ch1, do not fasten off. Weave in tail from starting ch3.

Front

With Color B ch3

Rnd 1: 12 dc into the 1^st ch, join in 1^st dc

Rnd 2: With Color C join in any dc *ch3, sk 1 st, sc into next st* rep around

Rnd 3: sl st into 1^st ch3 sp *ch5, sc into next ch3 sp* rep around, join in sl st

Rnd 4: sl st into 1^st ch5 sp, ch3, 4dc into ch5 sp *sc into sc, 5dc into next ch5 sp* rep around, join in sl st

Rnd 5: sl st into 3^rd dc of 1^st shell *ch3, dc into next sc, ch3, sc into 3^rd dc of next shell* rep around ending with a sl st into the 3^rd dc of the 1^st shell to join, fasten off Color C

Rnd 6: Join Color B in any dc, ch3, sc into next ch3 sp, ch3, sc into next ch3 sp, ch3, sc into next dc* rep around, end with ch3 and join

Rnd 7: sl st into 1^st sc, ch3, 2dc into same sc *sc into next sc, 5dc into next sc* rep around, ending with sc into next sc, 2dc into last sc, join in 3^rd ch, fasten off Color B

Rnd 8: Join Color C in the 3^rd dc of a shell (ch3, dc into next sc, ch3 sc into 3^rd dc of next shell* rep around, end with ch3, dc into next sc, ch3 and join in 1^st ch

Rnd 9: sl st into 1^st ch3 sp, ch3, 2dc into same sp *sc into next sc, 5dc into next ch3 sp* rep around, end with sc into next sc, 2dc into 1^st ch3 sp, join in 3^rd ch

Rnd 10: ch3 *dc into next sc, ch3, sc into 3^rd dc of next shell, ch3* rep around, join in 1^st ch, fasten off and weave in tails

Assembly

Once you have the front and the back crocheted, hold the two pieces together with the wrong sides together. Using Color A from the back, single crochet evenly around the outer edges joining the pieces.

Use stitch markers to hold the front and back together. Place them around the two pieces dividing them in fourths. The stitch markers will make it easier to crochet the two pieces together. 

The stitches will not match up exactly so you will need to ease the stitches in to join the two pieces. Work into the single crochet and around the chain stitches of the front piece, and into each single crochet stitch of the back piece. Once you have the pieces joined, they may look a bit wonky but you can stretch them out and make them even. 

Edging

Turn the potholder so that the front is facing you. Chain 1, single crochet around the edge, join in chain 1. Chain 3, skip 1 stitch, sc, chain 3, skip 1 stitch around, join in 1^st chain. Fasten off and weave in tails. Enjoy your new potholder!

I hope you like this pattern. Check out my other patterns on Raverly and on this blog. Feel free to sell any items you make with this pattern. If you'd like to share the pattern, please share the link to this post or the link to my Raverly account. 

Let me know if you have any questions, or find any errors in the pattern. Thanks for stopping by! 

Easy Basket Weave Knit Washcloth

This cute washcloth is knitted up with only knit and purl stitches. By alternating rows of purl and knit stitches you create a pretty basket weave effect. 

I found a great video by Gaye Glasspie of GGmadeit on Facebook for the crochet cast on method. Be sure to hop on over to her page and give it a like. She has some great videos and designs for knitting. The crochet cast on creates a very nice and decorative edge, plus it is a great method to use when you have a lot of stitches to cast on. Unlike my other favorite method, the long tail cast on, you don’t have to estimate how much yarn you need for your cast on. You use the yarn as you go and crochet stitches onto the knitting needle.

Now don’t worry if you don’t know how to crochet. The crochet cast on is very, very, easy and I’m sure you’ll get the hang of it in no time. Here is her video:

Crochet Cast On from Gaye Glasspie on Vimeo.

New Stitch a Day has a video on the crochet bind off. This method also creates a pretty decorative edge and is very easy to learn. I used both of these methods in the washcloth pattern I’m about to share with you.

Okay, on to the pattern. I hope you like it!

Basket Weave Washcloth

You will need a skein each of cotton yarn in two colors. I used Premier Home yarn in Violet Splash (Color A) and Sahara Splash (Color B)

The pattern is knitted in sets of 5 plus 6. So you can make the washcloth larger or smaller as long as you cast on sets of 5 and then 6 more for the edging stitches.

With Color A CO 31

Rows 1-3: k

Row 4: k3 *p5, k5* rep ending with p5, k3

Row 5: k3 *k5, p5* rep ending with k5, k3

Row 6: Repeat Row 4

Row 7: Repeat Row 5

Row 8: Repeat Row 4

Row 9: k3 * p5, k5* rep ending with p5, k3

Row 10: k3 *k5, p5* rep ending with k5, k3

Row 11: Repeat Row 9

Row 12: Repeat Row 10

Row 13: Repeat Row 9

With Color B

Rows 14-23: Repeat Rows 4-13

With Color A

Rows 24-32: Repeat Rows 4-13

Rows 33-35: k, BO and weave in tails.

Please let me know if you find any problems with the pattern, I’ve tried to make sure the pattern is complete and easy to understand. I’d be happy to answer any questions you may have, and I’d love to see your dishcloths you make with this pattern.

You may feel free to sell anything made with my patterns, just please give me credit as the designer. If you’d like to share my patterns, please share the link to the blog. Be sure to come by Facebook and check out my page, Kat’s Crochet Creations, and give it a like. Thanks for stopping by, and I hope you enjoy making your very own set of basket weave washcloths and dishcloths.